Hey everyone, if you’re running a facility that relies on storage tanks—whether for oil, chemicals, water, or any other liquid—at some point you’ll need to install a pump. I’ve been in the storage tank game for over a decade now, and let me tell you, I’ve seen way too many people skip steps, cut corners, and end up with pumps that leak, burn out fast, or just don’t move liquid like they should. The last thing you want is to have your operations grind to a halt because you botched a pump install. Today I’m breaking down exactly how to do it right, plus I’ll drop in a few quick links to the types of tanks we supply (because matching your pump to your tank matters more than most folks realize).
First off, let’s get real: the pump install isn’t a one-size-fits-all job. If you’ve got a floating roof tank, that’s different from a horizontal stainless steel tank, right? We sell all kinds—floating roof tanks, large oil storage tanks, horizontal storage tanks, stainless steel storage tanks, and vaulted storage tanks—and every one has its own little quirks when adding a pump. But there are core steps that apply to nearly all installations, so let’s start with the basics before we dive into tank-specific tips.
Step 1: Do Your Homework Before You Touch Anything
I can’t stress this enough—don’t just grab a pump and start drilling. First, figure out what you’re actually moving. Is it thin, like gasoline? Thick, like heavy crude? Corrosive, like acid? That changes everything. You also need to know how much liquid you need to move (that’s the flow rate) and how far you need to push it (total dynamic head—think vertical lift plus pipe friction). Mess that part up, and you’ll either have a pump that’s too weak (can’t get liquid where it needs to go) or way too strong (wastes energy and damages your tank over time).
Next, check your tank specs. If you’re working with a floating roof tank, for example, you can’t just drill a random hole in the side—you have to consider the roof moving up and down with liquid level, so the pump connection needs to flex or have enough clearance. Speaking of, we’ve got a whole page on floating roof tanks if you need to brush up on their design: /storage-tank/floating-roof-tanks.html. For large oil storage tanks, they’re usually bigger and built for higher volumes, so you’ll need a pump with higher horsepower to match—you don’t want to be refilling mid-shift because your pump can’t keep up. And if it’s a horizontal storage tank, they’re often mounted low to the ground, so you might need a priming pump to get liquid flowing if your main pump is above the tank.
Step 2: Gather Your Tools and Parts (And Make Sure They’re Compatible)
No one wants to run to the hardware store twice mid-install. Here’s what you’ll need: the right pump (driven by your homework), pipe (matching the pump’s inlet/outlet size and material—copper for water, steel for oil, etc.), fittings, gaskets (make sure they’re rated for your liquid!), a wrench set, pipe thread sealant, a level, a drill (if you’re drilling through the tank), and safety gear—goggles, gloves, maybe a respirator if you’re working with fumes.
Wait, speaking of tank compatibility: if you’ve got a stainless steel storage tank, you can’t use steel fittings because that’ll cause galvanic corrosion. Oops. That’s a rookie mistake. For stainless tanks, use stainless steel or plastic fittings to avoid ruining both the tank and your new pump. We supply a ton of stainless steel storage tanks for exactly this reason—they’re corrosion-resistant, so they work with almost any liquid, but you have to pair the pump parts right. Check out our stainless steel storage tanks here: /storage-tank/stainless-steel-storage-tank.html. Vaulted storage tanks are more heavy-duty, usually for underground or buried setups, so their pump connections need to be watertight to keep out dirt and groundwater—something easy to overlook if you’re used to above-ground tanks.
Step 3: Prep the Tank (The Most Important Step No One Talks About)
Before you do anything, shut off all flow to the tank and drain as much liquid as you can. If you’re working with flammable stuff like the large oil storage tanks we sell, this is non-negotiable—even a tiny spark can cause a disaster. Vent the tank too, so pressure doesn’t build up as you drill or work on it. Then, mark where you’re mounting the pump. For most above-ground tanks, the pump should be low enough to prime easily, but above the ground so it’s not sitting in water if the area floods. For horizontal storage tanks, they’re often placed horizontally, so the pump inlet should be at the bottom of the tank to avoid sucking in air.
When you’re ready to drill, use a hole saw that’s exactly the size of your pump’s inlet or outlet. Go slow—metal shavings can get into the tank, and you don’t want those contaminating your liquid. Once the hole is cut, clean the edges really well—no burrs left, or your gaskets won’t seal, and you’ll have leaks later. If you’re working on a floating roof tank, make sure the hole is in the stationary part of the shell, not the roof itself—you don’t want the roof tearing up your pump line every time it moves. The floating roof tanks page I linked earlier has a diagram of typical pump mount locations, so that’s a good check if you’re confused.
Step 4: Install the Pump, Piping, and Seals
Here’s where the physical work happens. First, put the gasket on the pump flange, then line it up with the hole you drilled. Hand-tighten the bolts, then use a wrench to tighten them in a crisscross pattern—this ensures the seal is even, no leaks. Don’t over-tighten, though—you can crack the flange or strip the bolts.
Next, connect the piping. Start at the pump inlet first, because that’s where air can get in. Make sure the inlet pipe slopes slightly toward the tank—if it slopes away, air will get trapped, and your pump won’t prime. That’s a super common issue, I’ve lost count of how many people skip that slope. Then connect the outlet pipe, making sure all joints are sealed with pipe thread sealant (or Teflon tape, depending on the liquid—ask if you’re not sure, but sealant works for most cases).
Wait, for buried tanks like vaulted storage tanks, you might need to use flexible piping to handle any ground movement, right? Yeah, because the ground shifts a little over time, and rigid pipe can break or pull the pump loose. That’s one of the perks of vaulted tanks—they’re built tough, but pairing them with flexible pump connectors makes the install last longer. Check out our vaulted storage tanks page for more details on buried setups: /storage-tank/vaulted-storage-tank.html. For large oil storage tanks, you’ll need a backflow preventer on the outlet—so liquid doesn’t flow back into the tank when you shut off the pump, which can damage the pump’s impeller.
Step 5: Test Everything (Don’t Skip This)
Once everything is hooked up, it’s time to test. First, fill the inlet side of the pump with liquid (prime it—most pumps have a plug for this). If you don’t prime it, it’ll just spin and burn out. Then, turn the power on low at first, not full blast. Check for leaks around the pump flange, pipe joints, and gaskets. Listen for weird noises—grinding means the impeller is rubbing, high-pitched whining means air in the line. If something’s off, shut it down right away and fix it—don’t run a faulty pump, you’ll just cause more damage.
Let me give you a quick example: last year a customer of ours bought a large oil storage tank and a cheap pump from another company, skipped priming, and didn’t slope the inlet pipe. The pump ran dry for 10 minutes, burned out the impeller, and they had to shut down for 3 days to replace it. We supply the pumps that pair with our tanks, so we always walk our customers through the steps to avoid that mistake. If you’re using one of our tanks (and our team is always here to help), you won’t have to deal with that headache.
Step 6: Finish Up and Maintain
Once it’s working, clean up your mess—metal shavings, old gaskets, whatever. Label the pump with what it’s moving, the install date, and when you should do maintenance. Speaking of maintenance, check the pump every month: tighten bolts, check for leaks, change the oil if it’s a motorized pump, clean the strainer on the inlet (strainers keep debris from getting into the pump, which is another big cause of failure). For floating roof tanks, you should also check the pump line’s clearance every few months to make sure it’s not getting caught on the moving roof as the level changes.
A quick recap to make sure you didn’t zone out: figure out your liquid and flow first, match the pump to your tank type, prep the tank properly (vent, drain, clean), install with the right seals and pipe slope, test thoroughly, and keep up with maintenance. And if you’re shopping for a tank to pair with a pump? We’ve got all the options—floating roof tanks, large oil storage tanks, horizontal storage tanks, stainless steel storage tanks, vaulted storage tanks, whatever you need.
If you’re ready to get set up with a tank and pump that work together, or just have questions about an existing install, reach out to our team. We help facilities all over get set up right, so you don’t have to deal with the same mistakes I’ve seen (and fixed) over the years. No pushy sales stuff, just solid advice from people who know tanks and pumps inside and out.
References:
- Mays, L.W. (2011). Hydraulic Design Handbook. McGraw-Hill.
- API Standard 650. (2020). Welded Tanks for Oil Storage. American Petroleum Institute.
- Puckorius, R.R. (2018). Centrifugal Pump Installation, Operation, and Maintenance. Fairmont Press.
- National Fire Protection Association. (2021). NFPA 30: Flammable and Combustible Liquids Code.